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Economical double glazing

By Green Living Tips | Published 06/6/2008 | repairs , energy , building

Double glazing - without the hefty price tag

Note from Michael: this article was kindly contributed by Libe Chacos, author of The Better Building Guide - Thanks Libe!

There are around 8 million homes in Australia and many millions more around the world that have been built without real consideration of energy efficiency, the comfort of those who live in them, rising power costs or the impact on the environment.

If you live in one of them, you can easily transform your home and:

Dramatically reduce your heating and cooling needs
Slash your energy bills and greenhouse gas emissions
Make your home much more comfortable all year round

Industry reports have shown that even when a house is fully insulated – walls, floor and ceiling, that up to 48% of the heat loss occurs through single glazed windows.

The following are qualities that will help you to choose the most appropriate glass for your situation:

The U-value or R-value
The Insulation level of the window (not just the glass); the lower the better
SHGC – Solar Heat Gain Co-efficient. This is expressed as a number between 0 and 1. The lower a window’s SHGC, the less solar heat it transmits.

So let’s take a look at one alternative and see how it applies the right principles of energy efficient windows to save you thousands of dollars on your heating and cooling while you do your bit for a much better environment:

Double Glaze your home for under $400

Double glazing usually consists of two layers of glass and therefore costs an arm and a leg. But there's alternatives you can install yourself such as a transparent membrane you attach to the inside of your window frame to provide a still air gap and thereby create a double glazing effect.

Depending on the type of windows you have in your home some supplementary framing or support may be required. I have installed the ClearComfort membrane on a house in Canberra (Australia) which is well known for being terribly cold in winter and very hot during summer. The effect was instant and surprisingly good. Condensation was pretty much reduced to zero and you could really feel the difference when touching the membrane to how cold the glass used to feel.

To avoid condensation occurring in the air gap you should the membrane system when the air humidity is low. You should also check that there is no moisture trapped between the glass and the frame and also that the frames are in good order and won’t let moisture into the air gap from the outside. If you have recently been renovating or painting, ensure that any paintwork or silicon etc has thoroughly cured.

Membrane installation

The membrane is fixed in place using double sided tape, cut to size and then made taut using a hair drier. There is a little patience and skill requited to do a good job. It's recommended to use two strips of tape placed side by side for large windows, thus effectively doubling the tape width, eliminating any problem using these products on large windows. So even with large windows, in many situations the system is unobtrusive and an excellent addition to making your home more comfortable.

The ClearComfort system is available internationally and has been tested by a NATA accredited auditor using the Australian Window Energy Rating Scheme (WERS) developed by the CSIRO and the Australian Window Association. ClearComfort and other similar products are eminently suited to affordable sustainable housing, in particular to retro-fitting, while providing the same insulating U-value as plain clear double glazing.

Other alternatives

Have a look at some alternatives and find which is available in your area. You can use different solutions in different rooms of your home; for example films can be applied to provide shade during the hotter months. North facing windows may need to be treated differently to south or west facing windows.

Remember use the fundamentals to your advantage and always ask suppliers or sales consultants how their product performs or improves the following areas:

The U-Value of the window
The SHGC
Maintenance / warranty

It is easier than most people think to have an energy efficient house. You can make a dramatic improvement to your heating and cooling bills with a small investment and lessening your environmental footprint as you do so.

Tankless water heaters

By Green Living Tips | Published 09/11/2007 | water , home , building

Tank vs. tankless hot water heating

Through the many houses and places I've lived in over the years, I've experienced quite a few different hot water systems. Everything from a kettle when I was a fisherman (that was rough), to the solar shower bag and wood stove when I was in the outback and the more traditional types - electric tank, gas tank and tankless water heaters. I haven't had the pleasure of owning a solar hot water service as yet, but I regularly drool over my neighbor's!

If your hot water service is on its last legs and solar is out of your reach too; consider a tankless water heater.

Traditional tank systems have a couple of major drawbacks - firstly, they tend to wear out in under a decade; so millions of these things wind up in landfill annually. Another biggie environmentally speaking, not to mention ongoing costs - is energy consumption. Heating water accounts for over 20% of residential energy use in the USA and up to 40% of energy used in Australian homes.

All that energy has to come from somewhere and usually it's from fossil fuels (gas) or coal-fired electricity generation. For each kilowatt of electricity produced from coal, around 1.5 pounds of carbon emissions emissions are created. Then there's mercury, nitrous oxide and sulfur and all sorts of other toxic goodies thrown in as well.

The energy hog aspect of tank based hot water systems is due to the fact that much of the time they are cycling on and off to maintain water temperature. While you can reduce/retard the amount of heat escaping using a water heater blanket; you (and the environment) is basically paying for heating water that you aren't using at that moment - this is called standby heat loss.

Additionally, each time you use the hot water, cold water is flowing into the tank which lowers the temperature of water that had been heated; therefore even more energy is then required for reheating.

The tankless water heater

Tankless water systems work very differently by heating water on demand. A tankless hot water service applies heat directly to the pipe after being automatically activated when a hot water valve is opened. Once engaged, the heater delivers a constant supply of hot water. Tankless water heaters are continuing to gain popularity and now account for over 50% of all the new domestic systems installed in Britain.

Tankless hot water savings

While the initial outlay for a tankless water heater can be double the cost of a standard tank water heater - sometimes more; it should pay for itself in just a few years or less. The hardware should also last twice as long as a tank system. The average family can expect to save between 30 and 50% on water heating related energy bills each year. Both these points make it not only good for your wallet to switch to a tankless system, but good for the environment too.

Disadvantages of tankless

Aside from the initial cost, there are a few other common disadvantages of a tankless system.

a) Tankless systems are somewhat limited in the quantity of hot water that can be produced simultaneously. I don't remember this being an issue with the gas tankless system that we had in our last house (family of four).

b) I've read reports that hot water can take longer to reach faucets that are some distance away from the unit. Again, this is something I didn't experience with our system.

Something very important to check into if you're replacing an existing system is if your plumbing, gas/electricity systems are compatible with a tankless setup. While there are energy savings in using a tankless, they do use a lot of energy in a short space of time in order to produce "instant" hot water. This may mean some (expensive) modifications are required to your hourse - so it's best to get professional advice from a plumber first before purchasing.

Unless your current water heater is a voracious energy hog; given that a tankless system isn't cheap; consider keeping it until the end of its service life. There's plenty of other things you can do around your home to minimize environmental impact in the meantime.

Something else I noticed when researching this article is that within the water heating industry, there's definite sides - those in the industry who love tankless and those who seem to absolutely hate it. Reading some of the debates was a bit like reading arguments between car lovers over different manufacturers. My advice is that if you are considering replacing your hot water service with a tankless system - make the plumber you consult is not prejudiced either way so you'll get a balanced professional view of what's best in your circumstances.

Michael Bloch
Green Living Tips.com
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Comments

Comment #1 (Posted by William Homer)

THE DISADVANTAGES OF GAS TANKLESS WATER HEATERS

I did lots of reading and research before buying and installing my Bosch tankless gas water heater. I found it nearly impossible to find facts or comments on the negative aspects of tankless vs. conventional tank heaters. My comments will emphasise the negative aspects as I have experienced, and
continue to experience, them.

I live in Southern California and have had a long standing interest in both energy and water conservation.You already know all the advertised reasons in favor of buying a tankless heater. The following discussion indicates why I wish I had stayed with the conventional tank type heater. The reasons may or may not apply to your situation, but you should at least consider their potential impact.

I bought the Bosch Model GHW 1600 H with hydro generated ignition. The reason I bought this one instead of one of the many others I investigated was
two-fold. First, the $300 tax credit for this high efficiency model (applicable to tax years 2006 and 2007 only). Second, this unit had the lowest minimum flow requirement for gas ignition of the several brands I considered. This unit has an advertised 0.6 gal/min minimum flow requirement to initiate gas flow and ignition. Since I use several low flow faucet fixtures and flow adjustable shower heads, this was an important consideration.

Now the disadvantages.

A. Since these water heaters heat water as it is being used, both the gas supply line and the exhaust plumbing must be sized accordingly. 3/4" gas supply line and 5" exhaust vent (with a minimum 6 foot rise) is required. A conventional 40 or 50 gallon tank type heater requires only 1/2" gas supply line and 3" exhaust plumbing.

B. I had to reroute the hot and cold water pipes to hook up to the new tankless unit. The price of copper is outrageous nowadays. The cost of water,
gas, and exhaust supplies cost me nearly $250 more than what it would have cost me for supplies to just replace with a new conventional water heater. That pretty much wipes out the tax credit advantage.

C. I found the 0.6 gal/min minimum flow requirement was applicable only if you had the temperature control set at maximum. At lower temperature settings, the minimum flow requirement goes up. This is because the module that controls the gas flow to the burners has a range of approximately 24,000 btu/hour minimum up to 117,000 btu/hour maximum. To get the desired water temperature for a shower required me to run the shower head at maximum flow rate. Otherwise, the water heater burner would turn off and then you get only cold water! Also, I can not use the flow control feature of the shower head to conserve water during the soap and scrub portions of the shower. As a result, the entire time I'm in the shower it is maximum flow, using, and wasting both water and gas.

D. At the kitchen sink, if you ever need a low flow of warm/hot water for whatever purpose, forget it! Once again, if the flow isn't high enough, all
you get is cold water.

E. I takes about 4 or 5 seconds from the time you turn on the hot water faucet for the gas burner flame to come on. This adds 4 or 5 seconds to the
time over what a conventional water heater can deliver hot water to the faucet.

F. On a conventional water heater there is only one control. Set the desired temperature and forget it. On my tankless heater there are two controls, a water temperature and a gas burner control. They interact and getting the optimum performance point is difficult.

In Southern California, a water heater typically lasts from 7 to 12 years. The tankless heater is supposed to last 20+ years. The thought of having to
put up with the limitations and inconvenience of my tankless water for that length of time is not a plesant thought.

Bottom line: if I had read this kind of report prior to buying a tankless water heater, I never would have.
Comment #2 (Posted by Michael [Green Living Tips])

William, thanks for the detail about your experience with tankless water heaters; it provides a valuable opinion for those considering their options!
Comment #3 (Posted by Rosalie Knaack)

Hello- I am actually surprised at some of the things that I've read. I'll preface this with the comment that I am from South Texas where the sun heats everything up regardless of desire :)

I have done a LOT of research on home built solar water heaters and they seem so easy and inexpensive that, combined with a well insulated tank (to hold the sun heated water) and a tankless heater I think it will do the job quite well.

Currently we live in South Korea where I've had my first exposure to tankless water heaters. We are staying in a longterm hotel waiting for our apartment to become available and in the shower the water heater is part of the faucet. You set the faucet to the temp you want and it heats up the water right there. It does get rather hot and it has a 'don't touch' sign on it, but I've touched it out of forgetfulness a few ties without being burned. I really like it and will research such systems when planning my own home.
Comment #4 (Posted by Ana)

If you are looking for a tankless water heater I would recommend the Titan electronic tankless water heater. I purchased one years ago and I enjoyed it so much I actually started a company selling them. The titan don't have the temperature variation problems that other units have and they are protected from dry-starts. They are very compact, very powerful and made in the USA

Building for climate change

By Green Living Tips | Published 01/21/2007 | building

Building? Bear in mind global warming and climate change

If you're an eco-savvy person thinking about building a new house soon; aside from designs and materials that are environmentally friendly, you should probably also pay special attention to protecting your investment from the same environment that is now in turmoil.

This is becoming an increasingly important aspect in my plans for my own "green" existence in the years ahead. I want the next structure I build to not only have little impact on the surrounding area and be self-sufficient energy and water wise - but I want it to last and to stand up to unforeseen climatic events.

When architects draft house plans, they usually do so bearing in mind the environment in which the house will be constructed. This includes the weather patterns. For example, a house built in a cyclone or hurricane prone area will require features (often by law) that a structure in an area that isn't prone to high winds wouldn't need.

With global warming induced climate change starting to make itself felt, and since none of us really know any more what the weather patterns in our area will be like even 5 years from now; it's important to protect your investment by thinking ahead. You only need to read the news each day to see evidence of an angry planet. I'm increasingly seeing headlines related to extreme weather events and a "storm of the century" is occurring yearly in some places.

While what is yet to occur weather-wise is unforeseen, we can take advantage of what scientists have been able to tell us about the years to come. An example of this is water. In our state, rainfall is expected to reduce in the decades ahead; and we'll see more rain "events" rather than rain periods. This means less rain and what rain does fall will do so in more concentrated bursts.

Given this, my new house will have larger storage tanks and greater roof surface area. Landscaping-wise, I'll be planting native trees that are the least thirsty of the local species.

The structure will also be strengthened to withstand higher winds than what is required by local regulations. Wind turbines, which weren't an option before, may become a viable alternative or adjunct to solar panels. Extra expansion joints will be an important feature to cope with extremes in temperature. Even now in our city; people are reporting huge cracks appearing in brick wall due to the drought. Drainage is another important aspect. After a dry spell the ground can be somewhat resistant to soaking up moisture and initial rains can just sit on the surface causing flooding problems.

The idea is to design your house so that regardless of which way our weather patterns go, it will take whatever nature can throw at it - within reason. No doubt it will add many thousands of dollars to the cost of the structure, but it's better that than have the very thing you're trying to live more in harmony with, nature, destroy your earth friendly living dreams.

Rainwater tank materials

By Green Living Tips | Published 12/11/2007 | water , home , garden

Selecting a rainwater tank - materials

When it does rain here, which isn't all that often these days, it's a happy experience mixed with guilt. Unlike previous houses I've lived in, we have no rainwater tank at present. Watching those gallons of precious clean water pouring away makes me feel very un-green.

Here in Australia, the corrugated rainwater tank is somewhat of a national icon. In South Australia, around 30% of homes have rainwater catchment systems. Water tanks haven't been an overly attractive home addition until recently; although seeing the old style tank does make me feel very nostalgic! These days, tanks come in all sorts of shapes, colors, materials and sizes to suit any home and space.

Even if having a full size water tank isn't an option for you, rain barrels are a very cheap and easy to install option. These look like a pickle barrel, are mostly made of plastic and hold up to 80 gallons - you can pick them up for around a hundred dollars. Ever gallon of water saved counts!

In regards to larger tanks, in this article, we'll take a brief look at the various materials commonly used, their advantages and disadvantages.

Poly (plastic) rainwater tanks

Poly tanks are made from polyethylene; a UV stabilized, food grade plastic. The tanks are light, you only need a sand base to place them on, they come in a wide variety of colors and have a long serviceable life. Many poly tanks carrying a 25 year warranty, although many claim 15 years is a very realistic lifespan. They are also usually the second cheapest of the options covered in this article.

One of the major disadvantages of polyethylene is the material is made from petrochemicals. Even after their serviceable life has ended, there's still a great big hunk of plastic that will take generations to break down and wiil release toxins as it does so.

However, polyethylene tanks can still be easily recycled after 15 years, so it's just a matter of breaking the tank up and then carting it away rather than trying to squeeze a few more years out of one.

Some poly tanks are made with a vertical seam - this is a weak point that may cause splitting and subsequent water loss. Polyethylene water tanks and fire don't really mix either - they'll just melt. This can be a real problem if you're in a rural area and you need that water to fight a fire.

The other issue is the long term effects of drinking water stored for such a long time in this material. Polyethylene tanks are relatively new on the market, so there's no serviceable life studies been done in relation to these issues as far as I know.

I had a polyethylene rainwater tank at my place in the outback where temperatures would get up to around 46C (115F) degrees celcius in the shade and below freezing during winter. The tank performed well over the couple of years I had it before selling the property, but there was a bit of an odd taste to the water on hot days (it was placed in full sun).

Just on that point - before purchasing a poly tank, check the warranty for temperature stipulations as some manufacturers will void the warranty if conditions where the tank is installed can get extremely hot.

Steel tanks

Three materials are most popular - Galvanized steel, Zincalume® and Colorbond® (the latter two may be called by other names in different countries).

Galvanized tanks have been around for over 150 years and are usually the cheapest type of tank. Hot-dip galvanizing is a process used to coat steel or iron with zinc. The Zinc helps slow down corrosion, but depending on environmental factors, a galvanized tank may last well under 5 years, particularly if the roof of the structure capturing the rainwater is made from Zincalume. This is due to electrolysis.

Zincalume® has been around for about 30 years and was originally used for roofing. It's a a mix of 55% aluminium, 43.5% zinc and 1.5% silicon bonded to steel. There's a lot of conflicting information around about lifespan, but the general consensus seems to be about 10-15 years.

Colorbond is Zincalume with a conversion layer applied to the surface of the steel to improve adhesion; then a polyester primer baked on, followed by a top coat of paint that is also baked on. It's not unusual to find a 20 year warranty on these tanks, but a deep scratch to the paint can be enough to accelerate the corrosion process.

Some metal tanks now also have polyethylene linings to further help retard corrosion - escaping plastic altogether can be a difficult thing to do these days.

If you do buy a steel based tank, look into installing extra sacrificial anodes to further delay corrosion.

Concrete water tanks

Concrete rainwater tanks can be installed either above or under ground. The latter is a good option if you're short on space as they can be constructed in such a way to allow for load bearing, for example under a driveway.

Given the material, they are very heavy and often poured on-site or delivered in sections that are then basically cemented together. Again, a polyethylene liner may be used. Without a liner, the tank will leach lime and over time you'll have a slightly alkaline water. With concrete being porous, without a liner water will penetrate into the concrete over time which may cause corrosion problems in relation to steel framework.

Concrete is also an energy intensive product that requires a great deal of heat and water in its production. Additionally, the components need to be mined.

Fiberglass

This is another long-lasting option that can be installed above or below ground. Fiberglass tanks resist corrosion and are not generally affected by chemicals.

As fiberglass tanks tend to allow more light in than other types of tank materials, this can encourage the growth of algae, so they should be painted. Fiberglass can also tend to be brittle, leaving it prone to cracks - something you don't want, particularly in an in-ground situation.

Choosing a tank material

Choice is wonderful, but as you can see, there's advantages and disadvantages with each type of tank, particularly when it comes to environmental impact - so it's really a matter of gauging your needs and budget and then choosing the lesser of the evils. In regards to the financial side of things, bear in mind not just the initial cost, but how many times the tank will need replacing over X years. This also plays a role in the amount of resources used. Something worth checking into are rebates on rainwater tanks and/or associated plumbing - many governments now offer cash-back schemes.

Even with the various disadvantages of each material, given the length of serviceable life of most tank options and the tens of thousands of gallons of water you can collect over that time; installing a rainwater tank is still a very green move.

Michael Bloch
Green Living Tips.com
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Blackwater recycling systems
By Green Living Tips \| Published 12/19/2006 \| water , home , gadgets

How blackwater treatment and recycling systems work We are the proud owners of a blackwater recycling system. It's a step beyond greywater recycling, in that everything that goes down our drains, including toilet water and what it carries, is recycled. Without this system, given the current drought and water restrictions in Australia, much of our garden would be struggling. How blackwater recycling works All the water we use in our house is routed to an initial tank via gravity. The blackwater is given time to settle and a primary colony of bacteria goes to work for 24 hours, chewing through the chunky bits; much like a normal septic anaerobic (without oxygen) system. The settled blackwater is then diverted into a secondary treatment tank that's divided into 3 separate chambers - Aeration, Sludge settling and Irrigation. Blackwater Aeration stage Water and air are injected into the aeration chamber and timed intervals causing churn in the tank contents. Bacteria settle and multiply on the sludge particles, digesting a variety of nutrients and oxygen from the sludge. Sludge Settling Chamber The result of the aeration stage is then piped into a sludge settling chamber. Sludge sinks to the bottom and partially treated water is forced upwards through a mechanism that has another bacteria biomass covering it. This colony of bacteria then consumes most of the oxygen in the mix and breaks down any remaining solid particles. Irrigation Chamber The remaining effluent passes into the irrigation chamber where it is clarified and chlorinated; a process that is required by our local health authorities. I believe the amount of chlorine used is minimal as the water doesn't have a chlorine smell; unlike the mains water in our area. At this stage, treatment is completed and pumped out over our garden irrigation system automatically. Our plants absolutely love the recycled blackwater as it is still comparitively nutrient rich, just without the dangerous levels and types of pathogens. We never really need to use fertilizer in our garden where the irrigation is used. The system is arranged in such a way that raw sewage is unable to contaminate the treatment tank. Settled bacteria-rich sludge is also pumped back into the primary tank at regular intervals for the bacteria to continue digesting, thus reducing buildup of sludge and increasing the overall efficiency of the system. Owning a blackwater treatment system doesn't pose any serious problems that we've noticed so far. It's serviced every 3 months by the company that installed it. We do need to be careful of what we send down our drains as chemicals and anti-bacterial products can destroy the bacteria colony; but that's been a good thing as it means we use more environmentally friendly products. People often ask me if there's a nasty odor associated with blackwater systems and I'm pleased to say there's not. In fact, if your blackwater system is working correctly, there's very little odor. If it smells, it usually means that the bacteria are struggling; likely due to something you've put down the drain that you shouldn't have; such as disinfectant. A standard domestic blackwater system isn't suitable for use on vegetable gardens and certainly not for drinking water. There are blackwater setups around that can achieve a purity level suitable for human consumption, but they are very expensive and I don't think we're quite ready to take that step just yet :). Michael Bloch Green Living Tips.com Article reproduction guidelines